What is a zipper guard? It's a small fold of fabric at the top of a zipper to prevent the zipper pull from rubbing under the chin. There are different types and methods. In this post, we're going with the simplest and easiest way! I would use this on a zip-up hoodie, or on a onesie such as the Starfish Wearable Blanket.
Check out the Starfish Wearable Blanket HERE!
First, we need to determine the width. Most zippers are about 1" wide, and use a 3/8" seam allowance. That's what we'll be working with here.
To make a pattern piece for the guard, take a small piece of paper, and fold the top down by about 2".
With the folded part still at the top, measure over from the side by 1 3/8", and draw a vertical line. The 3/8" is what I'm using for the seam allowance for stitching the actual guard. You can use 1/4" or whatever works for you.
Measure down from the TOP (the fold) by the same amount as the last step, and draw a horizontal line. You'll now have a 1.375"x1.375" square.
This step is optional, but I feel like it helps with accuracy. Measure over from the drawn corner, along the horizontal line, by 3/8" (or whatever seam allowance you chose). Make a mark. This helps with stitch line accuracy.
Now to test your artistic skills! Kidding. Kidding. It's not that deep. Draw a semi-circle from the fold line down to the mark you just made. This will be the shape of the guard when you've completed it.
Cut out the semi-circle. Now you've got your pattern piece!
Cut two of these pieces. On the wrong side of one of the pieces, measure and draw in the seam allowance so that you have an accurate stitch guide.
Place the pieces Right Sides Together. Stitch along the stitch line. A straight stitch on your regular machine is fine. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/8".
Turn the piece right sides out, pushing out the curve, and press well. Mine looks kind of like a half moon because I used a stretch fabric. If you are using a woven or a stable knit, it won't be so 'moon' like. It won't matter in the end, as you'll be lining it up to a zipper tape. Then, press the guard in half, point to point.
Now, let's attach it to the zipper! If you have not done so through your pattern tutorial, trim the top of the zipper. In this case, we're sticking to the 3/8" seam allowance. That is the amount you want ABOVE the pull stop - for attaching a neckband or hood.
Open the zipper up a bit. Wrap the guard around one side of the zipper, lining up the raw edges of the guard to the raw edge of the zipper tape. Which side you choose is up to you. Typically, it will be the right-hand side if the zipper is laying right sides up on a table (this is the wearer's left).
Baste along the raw edges/zipper tape to hold the guard in place while you install the zipper.
When you zip the zipper back up, the guard should just cover the pull. You don't want it to reach all the way across the top of the zipper because you'll still need room for a seam allowance to install the zipper.
And that's it! You can head back to the tutorial to complete the zipper installation!
Check out the Starfish Wearable Blanket HERE!
Happy Making!
Rachelle